Editor’s note: The pandemic especially hit the restaurant business hard, as many places had to close or place extra restrictions on their customers. Local eateries are beginning to show a resurgence and Saline River Chronicle wishes to salute them with this series of stories.
By Tim Kessler
Saline River Chronicle Contributor
Molly’s Diner is a landmark restaurant in the Warren cultural scene, having celebrated its 45th anniversary in July.
It has attracted statewide attention with four nominations in a row for the Arkansas Food Hall of Fame. Current owner Brent Higgins hopes to gain that award in time to honor his father, Ronnie, who not only founded Molly’s but who has many honors already.
Ronnie Higgins set many records playing football for the University of Arkansas at Monticello and was named a three-time All-American. He attracted the attention of the legendary coach Vince Lombardi of the Green Bay Packers, but turned down the opportunity to go pro.
Instead, he opened Molly’s Diner, named after his daughter and Brent’s sister, Molly.
“He’s taught me everything I know,” Brent said. He noted 75 percent of the recipes and 100 percent of the homemade desserts still used today came from his grandmother, Peggy Higgins, who was a dietician at Bradley County Memorial Hospital, now Bradley County Medical Center, for 35-40 years.
“We’re big on customer service,” Higgins said. Many of the longtime waitresses know exactly what certain repeat customers will order before they even ask for it.
“If you come in once a week, twice a week, we want it to be the same quality. It’s about you caring and putting out the best we can,” he said.
His family has helped at the restaurant at various times. His daughter, Alyssa, is currently in nursing school at Southern Arkansas University. His son, Dylan, attends UAM. His wife, Lisa Higgins, coaches basketball and softball, plus teaches business, at Hermitage.
Longtime employees include Chris Hartman, Rea Burch, Brunsey Rice and Bryce Temple. Waitresses include Pearl, Annie, Samantha, Ruby, Shelly, Alice, Amanda, Destiny and Makaylen.
The diner has old-time sayings on signs decorating the walls. A meeting room has memorabilia from the Lumberjacks, Razorbacks and Boll Weevils. Daily specials include chicken fried chicken, boneless fried pork chops, salmon croquettes and other items. Full breakfast platters are available and for lunch, a trademark item is the “Beltbuster” double hamburger or cheeseburger.
Higgins admits Molly’s Diner suffered during the COVID-19 outbreak, having to shut down for a while and then readjust according to health mandates.
“All businesses took a hit financially, workforce, cost of goods. It’s tough on everybody. I feel for the families out there. Hopefully, it’ll start coming back down,” Higgins said.
The restaurant has a big round table that is popular. “That’s where all the wars are fought and the big decisions made. I’m kind of the overseer,” he says.
“Either my father or myself has been here 99 percent of the time and we try to treat everyone who came into this establishment as family,” Higgins added.
Molly’s Diner is open from 5 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 6 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday. He said during the first three years of the diner, they attempted to be open for later hours but found it wasn’t financially feasible.
“I have people who care about our customers,” Higgins said, commenting that COVID “gave me a better appreciation of this place.”
